How often should I water my orchid?
Standing in water is the most common problem orchids (and other plants) suffer. All of our plants will be potted in a plastic pot which is placed inside a decorative container or basket. When watering, remove the plant from the decorative container and take the plastic pot to the sink to water thoroughly, then let the pot drain before returning it to it's decorative home. Applying ice to individual pots will keep your plants alive for a few months, but it makes them very unhappy and leads to an early demise, certainly shortening the blooming period. Many people make the mistake of assuming that since orchids are native to tropical rainforests, they must be watered several times a week. Unfortunately, watering this frequently will kill the roots of any orchid in short order. The general rule of thumb for orchids grown in the home is to water every 5 to 12 days, depending on the type of orchid, the temperature the plant is grown in, and the time of year. During the warm summer months when days are long, more frequent watering is required than in the cooler, shorter days of winter.

Terrestrial orchids live on the ground, usually in a water-retentive humus of rotting wood and leaves. These orchids need a constantly moist, but never soggy, medium in which to grow. Paphiopedilums (Lady Slippers) and cymbidiums are examples. Epiphytic orchids live on the branches of other plants -- usually trees. They are not parasites -- they obtain no food from the trees on which they grow. Epiphytic orchids have "air-roots" which are accustomed to drying out in between periods of rain. These orchids need an open medium in which to grow and the roots should be allowed to become moderately dry between waterings. Cattleyas, vandas, phalaenopsis, and dendrobiums are common examples.

There are three basic types of orchids, as far as watering is concerned: those that should be kept evenly moist at all times; those that should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings, except when in active growth; and those that should always be allowed to dry out a bit between waterings. The guidelines below list the major varieties of orchid in each type.

  • Varieties to keep evenly moist (not soggy or wet) at all times:
    Paphiopedilum (Lady Slippers), Miltonia, Cymbidium, Odontoglossum
  • Varieties to keep evenly moist during active growth, allowed to dry out between waterings when not:
    Cattleya, Oncidium, Brassia, Dendrobium.
  • Varieties to keep nearly dry between waterings:
    Phalaenopsis, Vanda, Ascocenda.
    • In a family of plants as large as Orchidaceae, there are, of course, exceptions to these rules.
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How often should I be fertilizing my orchids?
In their native habitat, orchids scavenge nutrients from whatever happens to be nearby: decomposing leaves, bird or animal droppings, or minerals borne in rainwater. You can help your orchid to grow faster and bloom sooner by feeding it the right fertilizers. Look for products that contain nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), along with trace elements such as iron.

Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the instructions on the label. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend usage once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering; more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering.

Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the label instructions. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend use once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering, more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering.
How do I know if my orchid is getting the proper amount of light?
One good indicator is leaf color. Generally speaking, the leaves should be bright green rather than dark green. Dark green indicates too little light while reddish green indicated too much light. Those orchids requiring higher light intensities, such as cattleyas, dendrobiums and oncidiums, should be placed in a south or west facing window, but be sure to protect the leaves from the hot mid-day sun with sheer curtains or move the plants back from the window on hot summer days.

Miltonias, phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums prefer lower light intensities and should be located further away from the window or placed in a window facing east or north. Orchids can be placed outside in the spring through fall in Dallas, providing they are not in direct sun and can be watered more frequently during hot spells Fertilize frequently and check for pests weekly and plants will thrive and be strengthened for more blooms during their next cycle!
The orchid in my window suddenly developed black blotches on the leaves. Is it sick?
It sounds like your plant has a bad case of sunburn! Longer, brighter days can increase the light intensity in your window so that the leaves get too hot and burn. You need to move your plant back from the window or put up sheer curtains to help protect it from direct sunlight. As the light intensity decreases in the fall, move your plant closer to the window again. Frequently check their leaves and watch for any fading of their green color, especially on those parts of the leaf closest to the window. This is an early indication that they are being exposed to too much sun.
How do I know if I need to re-pot?
A newly potted phalaenopsis should be able to remain in its growth media two years before repotting. When there are many, long roots over the edge of the pot, this plant has most likely been growing for several years since its last repotting. If your plant is not currently in bloom, you should repot now. Be sure to remove all dead roots that are usually dark-colored, soft and mushy. Sometimes they may be dry, with a fiber running through the middle of the root. Center the plant with all of its roots down in the pot and add moistened bark until the level of the bark is just below the bottom of the lower set of leaves. Wait a week before resuming your normal watering and fertilizing routine.
I would like to try growing orchids under lights in my house. What type of light fixtures and bulbs do you recommend that I try?

Many hobbyists have been successful with just ordinary fluorescent lights. You can also buy the more expensive fluorescent plant lights that give off a broader spectrum of light. An inexpensive way to achieve similar results is to use one cool-white fluorescent to one warm-white fluorescent bulb. The cool-white bulb will give off more of the blue wavelengths of the visible spectrum while the warm-white gives the plants more of the red end of the spectrum. Such a broad spectrum of light helps assure better growing and blooming. Some people also add one incandescent bulb to enhance the red end of the spectrum but be sure you don't burn your plants with the heat given off by this type of bulb.
What are the most common orchid pests?
Snails and slugs often hide in the potting media where they chew on young root tips; they also come out at night to chew on the leaves and stems. There are several insect pests that are common: Aphids (small sucking insects) and thrips (small chewing insects) attack tender new growth, flowers and buds. Scale insects form a brown or black crust on leaves and stems. Mealybugs also attack the leaves and stems forming a white cottony mass. Consult a local garden center for products to control these pests. An easy trick is to use rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab to wipe away most of the pests.