These plants are commonly referred to as "Moth Orchids" and are considered among the easiest of the orchid family to care for as well as the most recognizable. The long-lasting flowers bloom perfectly for up to three months, providing you ample return on your investment. The flowering intervals vary with each plant, and you may be treated to a bloom as often as twice a year. Phalaenopsis have become one of the most popular variety of orchids because of their low maintenance and delicate balance of poise and elegance.

Temperature:Phalaenopsis enjoy much the same temperature range as we do. The minimum temperature at night is 60-65 °F, while the average daytime temperature should be around 75-85 °F. Occasional deviations will not harm your plant, except when it is in bud - chilly temperatures may cause the plant to stop budding.

Light: Phalaenopsis will flourish indoors under normal lighting conditions, with indirect sunlight being the most advantageous. Caution should be used when placing a Phalaenopsis in direct sunlight due to the fact that its leaves burn easily from too much exposure to the sun.

Water: Water often enough to keep continuous moisture just below the surface of the medium, but be cautious of over-watering. Watering once a week is normally sufficient to keep your plant healthy and happy.

Humidity: Phalaenopsis enjoy moist air, with a humidity level of 55-75% being ideal. Placing your plant over a tray or dish of water can increase moisture. Separate the pot and tray with pebbles or small stones to raise the height of your plant and ensure that it does not sit directly in the water.

Feeding: Good results may be obtained by using a high-nitrogen fertilizer year-round at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed your plant once a month. In this instance, less is more. So be sure not to overdo it.

Repotting: Plants should be repotted every other year and, because they grow upwards without spreading, can go back into the same sized pot. A medium-grade wood bark works well with the base of the bottom leaf at the surface of the medium. Water sparingly until new roots are well established.

Note: When the last flower drops, cut your flower spike halfway down the stem. Continue caring for it and wait for a possible rebloom.
What do I do when my phalaenopsis stops blooming?
If your plant has healthy, with thick, green leaves that have not become wrinkled or drooping, cut the old flower stem up high, just above a "node" and just below the lowest bloom. The plant will frequently send out a new flowering branch at that location. If your plant has thin, wilted leaves, or if the plant is small, with only 3-to-4-inch-long leaves, it is best to cut the flower stem all the way down, so that the plant does not weaken itself by blooming again right away. Carefully water and fertilize your plant to build it back into shape for future flowering on a brand-new stem. This can take up to a year or more, as Phalaenopsis, like most orchids, is a relatively slow-growing plant.
I am growing my phalaenopsis orchid in the house but they never bloom. What can I do?
The most common reason for any orchid not to bloom is insufficient light. Move your phalaenopsis plants to a window where they will receive strong, but indirect light (near a south-facing window is ideal). You might also try lighting your plants with a fluorescent light fixture placed about 1-2 feet above the foliage. Give up to 12 hours of supplemental light per day. Phalaenopsis will also develop flower spikes in response to a cool period of about four weeks with night temperatures of 55F. After the cool treatment, raise the night temperature back to the normal 60-65F minimum. See if these changes to your growing conditions help to stimulate your plants to bloom.
My phalaenopsis has been in flower for quite a while and now it seems to be forming what looks like a new plant on the flower stem! Will it grow if I pot it and what type of soil is best?
Congratulations! With proper care you will have a new plant, identical in every way to your original phalaenopsis. Wait until the new plant has developed a strong little root system of its own, with two or three roots at least one to two inches long. Then, carefully cut the plantlet, called a keiki, from the flower stem and put it in a very small pot of seedling bark for its first potting. After a year or two, move up to medium-sized bark in a four to five inch pot. Alternatively, you can pot the keiki in special orchid sphagnum moss. Be sure to go light with the fertilizer for the first few months. Once the plant has established itself, as evidenced by increased leaf growth, start with full-strength fertilizing.